We were told that the volcanic soil has a significant influence on the character of the coffee.

Guatemala was warmer than Japan, but the low humidity during the dry season made the weather comfortable.

With a 15-hour time difference, it took me a while to get over the jet lag. I still remember trying to stay awake during the day.

Antigua was sunny enough to make us sweat just walking through town. Santa Rosa felt different. At a higher elevation and exposed to the wind, it was cool enough to want a jacket, even during the day.

Zel Cafe is based in Antigua and mainly works with larger coffee lots.

It purchases cherries from nearby areas, then processes them into green coffee at Bella Vista, its own processing facility. Some producers have their own facilities, and Zel Cafe also buys coffee that they have already processed.

Mr. Zelaya is the third generation of his family to work in coffee. He also manages several farms himself.

Each farm is more than 30 hectares. The main varieties grown include Red Bourbon, Yellow Bourbon, and Caturra.

Some of the farms also grow Geisha and Java. One coffee that stood out was a variety called “Malawi Geisha,” which we were told has Ethiopian roots.

On the cupping table, I found kiwi-like fruit notes, a fresh, melon-like quality, and a floral aroma.

It was different from the citrus and jasmine often associated with Geisha, with a rounder sweetness. It was one of the coffees that made the trip especially worthwhile.

Fermentation and processing often get a great deal of attention. His answer was a reminder that growing good cherries comes first.

Perhaps working at such a large scale has given him an especially clear understanding of how much cherry quality matters.

Prisma Coffee is an exporter based in Guatemala City, specializing in microlots.

Unlike Zel Cafe, Prisma buys coffee after producers have completed the processing. Evaluating what each producer has made, and recognizing its value, is central to its work.

Its founder, Eduardo, has also served as a head judge for the Cup of Excellence (COE), an international coffee competition. He brings considerable sensory expertise to his work.

He previously worked at Anacafé and has broad knowledge of cultivation and quality control. As he showed us around, his experience and enthusiasm for coffee were clear.

Competition coffees featuring rare varieties such as Geisha, or distinctive fermentation methods, often receive high scores.

I had wondered whether the qualities that earn recognition in a competition are always the same ones that support a lasting relationship with a producer.

Eduardo's answer helped put that into words. A competition may reward an exceptional and unusual cup. In a long-term buying relationship, the ability to produce high-quality coffee consistently matters too.

Looking beyond the cup to the producer's methods and future potential is an important part of an exporter's perspective.